Asturias Tour: a route along the most beautiful places in Northern Spain

We had six days for this road trip. That is more than enough time to get a good first impression of Asturias. In a relatively short time, we saw historic cities, colorful fishing villages, impressive nature reserves, and the mountain landscapes of the Picos de Europa.

During this trip, the focus was primarily on the eastern part of Asturias. The variety is great. One day you walk through a historic city like Oviedo or Gijón, while a few hours later you stand among the mountains of Covadonga or the Picos de Europa.

Our route looked something like this:

• Cudillero
• Oviedo
• Gijón
• Lastres
• Ribadesella
• Picos de Europa
• Lakes of Covadonga
• Avilés

Our route through Asturias begins in Cudillero, One of the most famous fishing villages in the region. The village is built against a steep hill, causing the colorful houses to rise in a stepped fashion above the harbor. Due to this unique location, Cudillero has become one of the most photographed places in Asturias. It can get quite busy here during the high season, but in early May it was surprisingly quiet.

One of the nicest ways to discover Cudillero is via the Route of the viewpoints. This walking route takes you past various viewpoints around the village. Along the way, you climb higher and higher via narrow alleys and stairs. One of the most famous viewpoints is the Mirador del Garita-Atalaya. From here, you look out over the harbor, the colorful houses, and the coastline of Asturias.

Cudillero feels almost Italian. The houses built against the hillside, the narrow streets, and the view over the harbor often reminded me of coastal towns you come across in Italy.

Oviedo is the capital of Asturias. The historic center is compact, making it easy to discover many sights on foot. You will find atmospheric squares, churches, narrow streets, and traditional cider bars. Because Oviedo lies on the route to Santiago, you will also see many walkers.

Just outside the center lies the Mount Naranco. On this hill stand the centuries-old churches of Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo. Both buildings are among the most important examples of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture. From the hill, you also have a beautiful view of Oviedo and the green surroundings.

There is also plenty to see in the center itself. We walk past the imposing Oviedo Cathedral, view various historical buildings, and sit down for lunch at Asturian Land. Naturally, we order a bottle of cider there as well. Asturias is known for its cider culture, and in many restaurants and bars, cider is still poured in the traditional way.

Be sure to taste it too Muscovites. These thin almond cookies with a layer of chocolate are among the most famous specialties of Oviedo. They have been made for years by the Rialto pastry shop, where you can taste the original Moscovitas.

Gijón It is situated directly on the sea and is one of the most important port cities in northern Spain. That industrial character can still be seen in various places, but at the same time, the city has wide beaches, a long boulevard, and an atmospheric historic center.

The oldest part of the city is Cimavilla. This former fishing district is situated on a peninsula between the harbor and San Lorenzo beach. Here you stroll through narrow streets, past small squares and traditional bars. From the Santa Catalina Hill Moreover, you have a beautiful view of the coastline, the harbor, and the city. For a craft beer, I can Señor Lúpulo Recommended. A small but cozy bar with a good selection of craft beer on tap and in bottles.

It lies outside the center Labor City of Culture. This enormous building complex was originally built as a training institute for miners' orphans. Today, it houses cultural institutions, event spaces, and a university campus, among other things. Due to its size and architecture alone, this is one of the most striking sights in Gijón.

After Gijón, we continue driving towards the east of Asturias. The route passes various coastal towns, viewpoints, and nature reserves. Green hills, steep cliffs, small beaches, and fishing villages constantly alternate.

On the way, we stop in Lastres. Just like Cudillero, this village is built against a hill, although Lastres feels much quieter. From the Mirador de San Roque, you have a beautiful view of the coastline, the harbor, and the houses built against the slope.

A little further away Ribadesella. This coastal town is bisected by the Sella River. On one side lies the historic center and the harbor, and on the other, a wide sandy beach with a promenade. During our visit, there was a market, and we could see what was being sold among the locals.

The next stop is Water Caves. This small village itself might not be very special, but how you get there certainly is. You reach the village via a road that runs through a natural cave. The road runs for over 250 meters through the cave. We walk through the cave and even spot a stone marten.

A special place is the Jesters of Pría Right on the rugged coast. During strong waves, seawater is forcefully forced upwards through openings in the limestone rocks here. You can even hear the water through the rocks. The sea was relatively calm when we were there, so we were unable to see this natural phenomenon. Even without surging water, this remains an impressive stretch of coastline.

After the coastal towns of Asturias, we drive inland towards Sotres. This small mountain village is situated at an altitude of over 1.000 meters and is one of the highest villages in Asturias. The route there is an experience in itself. The coast slowly disappears from view as the roads become increasingly winding and the mountains draw closer.

Sotres serves as a base for many visitors for hikes and excursions in the Picos de Europa. We also stayed here before heading further into the mountains. The village itself is small, but its location between the mountain peaks more than makes up for it. For a beautiful view of the village and the surrounding peaks, you can go to Mirador de Los Jorcaos.

For us, the Picos de Europa the main reason to travel to Asturias. This mountain region is known for its deep gorges and rugged landscape where you can enjoy wonderful hiking. We are hiking the Ruta del Cares, The most famous hiking route in the Picos. The path was originally built to maintain a water channel running through the gorge.

The route is approximately 12 kilometers long and leads from Poncebos to Caín. You walk along steep rock faces, narrow paths, and enjoy impressive views of the gorge. We stop regularly to take photos or simply enjoy the view. As a result, it takes us a bit longer than the approximately three hours often estimated for this route.

In the mountains, the weather can change quickly, and we notice that too. Sun, rain, and even a little snow alternate. Good hiking boots, plenty of water, and suitable clothing are not a luxury here. The Ruta del Cares is particularly popular in the summer, and parts of the route can get quite crowded.

In Caín, you can choose to walk the same route back to Poncebos, but you can also take the return trip in a 4x4. This is an excursion in itself. We drive along unpaved roads through parts of the Picos de Europa that are unlikely to reach in a regular car. Along the way, we make several stops and get to see a completely different side of the landscape once again. One tip: try not to sit all the way at the back of the jeep. From those seats, you see significantly less of the surroundings along the way.

De Lakes of Covadonga belong to the highlights of Picos de Europa. The mountain lakes are situated at an altitude of over 1.000 meters and attract many visitors every year. Before we reach the lakes, we first make a stop at Covadonga.

Covadonga is one of the most famous pilgrimage sites in Spain. The Santa Cave, Built against the rock face above a waterfall, it has been drawing pilgrims to this place for centuries. Covadonga also holds a special significance in Spanish history. According to tradition, the Battle of Covadonga took place here in the 8th century, in which Pelayo defeated the Moors. This victory is often seen as the beginning of the Kingdom of Asturias. The Basilica of Covadonga also immediately catches the eye amidst the green hills.

After that, we drive further up towards the lakes. Along the way, the weather changes constantly. Low-hanging clouds drift between the mountains, and there is even still snow along the road. A few minutes later, the sun breaks through again. That changeable weather is typical of this part of Northern Spain.

Having arrived at the top, we walk past Enol Lake en Ercina Lake. Surrounding the lakes are various hiking trails that take you past viewpoints, mountain meadows, and the lake shores. The low-hanging clouds give the landscape a mysterious quality.

Please note that the road to the Lagos de Covadonga is often closed to private traffic on weekends and during busy holiday periods. In that case, you can park your car in Cangas de Onís and continue your journey to the lakes by shuttle bus.

Cangas de Onis For many visitors, it forms the gateway to the Picos de Europa. The city lies between the mountains and is a popular base for visits to Covadonga and the Lagos de Covadonga.

The most famous building in the city is the Puente Romano (Roman Bridge). Despite the name, the current bridge largely dates back to the Middle Ages. The bridge with the large hanging cross is one of the most photographed places in Asturias. Around the bridge and in the center, you will find various restaurants, terraces, and shops.

We conclude our road trip through Asturias in Avilés. The historic center consists of atmospheric squares, arcades, and narrow streets that invite you to wander around without a plan. Pay a visit to Plaza del Mercado. In the middle of the square stands the covered market hall where locals do their shopping. Various cafes and restaurants are located around the square, making it a lively meeting place.

From the old center, we walk on towards the Centro Niemeyer. This modern cultural center forms a striking contrast with the historic buildings in the city center.
If you are in Avilés, be sure to try a Mantecado de Avilés. This local delicacy has been made in the city for generations and is one of the most famous specialties of Avilés.

For craft beer lovers, there are Barhalla en Cervecería Cabanon Two nice places. Both bars have a good selection of beers on tap and in bottles and make a great place to end the day.

Before we drive back to the airport, we make one more stop at Cape of Peñas, the northernmost point of Asturias. Around the lighthouse, you have a view over the Bay of Biscay.

On clear days, you can see far along the coast from here, but even in cloudy weather, this place has something impressive about it. The steep cliffs, the waves crashing against the shore, and the open sea form a beautiful contrast with the historic cities and mountain landscapes we visited earlier on this trip. It is a beautiful conclusion to our journey through Asturias.

Eating in Asturias is a social affair. Many dishes are meant to be shared, and it is very common to place multiple bowls and plates on the table. This allows you to sample different dishes without immediately ordering a full meal per person. Moreover, the portions are often large enough for several people to share.

You will find boards with local cheeses and sausages on many menus. Cheese plays an important role in Asturian cuisine. The region boasts dozens of different types of cheese, of which Cabrales is probably the best known. Fish and seafood are also abundant thanks to the location on the Bay of Biscay.

A dish you come across regularly is cachopo. This dish consists of two large slices of veal with ham and cheese in between, breaded and fried until golden brown. In many restaurants, one cachopo is large enough to share among several people.

Cider plays an important role in daily life. Throughout Asturias you come across cider houses against, traditional cider houses where cider takes center stage. Here, the cider is poured in the traditional way. The bottle is held high above the glass, causing the cider to crash into the glass with force. You are then served only a small amount, which is drunk immediately before being refilled.

Besides cider, we also found a surprisingly large number of nice beer bars. Especially in Gijón and Avilés, we came across several places with a good selection of craft beer. Of course, you can also go almost anywhere for a glass of wine or sangria.

During this tour, we stayed at various locations scattered throughout Asturias. As a result, we were always close to the sights we wanted to visit. From historic cities like Oviedo and Gijón to the Picos de Europa mountains and the coast near Avilés.

• AC Hotel Oviedo by Marriott (Oviedo)
• Hotel Silken Ciudad Gijón (Gijón)
• Rural Hotel Peña Castil (Sotres)
• Hotel Los Lagos Nature (Cangas de Onís)
• Hotel La Serrana (Avilés)

We had six days for our tour of Asturias. This gives you a good first impression of the region and allows you to visit quite a few highlights. However, an extra day in some places would not have been an unnecessary luxury.

For the route in this article, I would therefore recommend ten days instead. You will then have more time to explore cities like Oviedo, Gijón, and Avilés, hike longer in the Picos de Europa, and stop spontaneously more often along the way at viewpoints, beaches, or small villages.

If you want to explore the west of the region in addition to the eastern part of Asturias, you can easily add a few days to a week. Asturias is larger than many people think, and there is more to see than you can visit in one week.

Asturias has a different climate than many people expect when thinking of Spain. Due to its location on the Bay of Biscay and the presence of the Picos de Europa, temperatures here are often much lower than in the south of the country. This is precisely why many Spaniards flock to Asturias during the summer months to escape the heat elsewhere in Spain.

As a result, summer is also the busiest period of the year. Especially popular places such as the Lagos de Covadonga, the Picos de Europa, and coastal towns like Cudillero can be considerably busier then than in the spring and autumn.

We visited Asturias in May. In many places, the tourist season seemed to be only just getting underway. We noticed this especially in the cities, the Picos de Europa, and various coastal towns. Do keep in mind, however, that the weather can change quickly. During our trip, we experienced sun, rain, fog, and even snow. So, be well prepared if you are traveling to Asturias outside the high season.

For this route, a car is actually indispensable. Many of the most beautiful places are scattered throughout the region, and the drives between destinations form a key part of the experience. As far as I am concerned, the route along the coast, the roads through the Picos de Europa, and the drive up to the Lagos de Covadonga are among the highlights of this tour.

Do keep in mind that you will frequently encounter narrow and winding roads in the mountains. The roads climb steeply, especially towards Covadonga, Sotres, and the Picos de Europa. Furthermore, during our trip, we encountered fog, rain, and even snow. Driving slowly and allowing sufficient time for the distances is therefore recommended.

Disclaimer: My trip to Asturias was organized in collaboration with the Spanish Tourist Office en Tourism Asturias. Everything you read in this article is my personal opinion/experience.