North Wales: off the beaten track

In five days, I traveled through North Wales. Not past the most famous tourist attractions, but rather to places where nature, local entrepreneurs, and sustainable tourism come together. Below you will find the locations and activities I visited during this trip.

A visit to Pandy Farm Experience is a fun way to get acquainted with rural life in North Wales. At this sheep farm near Bala, you are welcomed by Erin, a fourth-generation sheep farmer. During the tour, she speaks in a personal way about life on the farm and how the trade has changed over the years.

Erin talks about, among other things, the various sheep breeds found in Wales. You are introduced to the small Welsh Mountain Sheep, which are perfectly adapted to the mountainous landscape, but also to larger breeds such as the Texel. In addition, you learn more about wool, which used to be an important source of income but nowadays yields much less than many people think.

The highlight is the demonstration with her sheepdog. We watch as the dog guides the sheep across the terrain with precision. It is clear that years of training lie behind this. It is no coincidence that Erin became British Sheepdog Trials Champion in 2018 and appeared on the BBC program One Man and His Dog a year later. And to think that she was still a young teenager at the time.

Pandy Farm organizes various tours and introduces visitors to daily life on a modern Welsh sheep farm in an accessible way.

De Mawddach Trail It is one of the most beautiful cycle routes in North Wales. The route follows a former railway line between Dolgellau and Barmouth and runs largely along the Mawddach Estuary. Because the cycle path is completely separated from the road, you can cycle here in peace without worrying about traffic.

Our bike tour starts in the village of Dolgellau. From here, you cycle through a varied landscape with views of the river estuary and the mountains of Eryri National Park. Along the way, you can stop at various places for a cup of coffee or something to eat.

The full Mawddach Trail is approximately 15 kilometers long, but you can also choose to cycle only a portion of the route.

Hidden in the green Dysynni valley lies Castell y Bere, One of the lesser-known castles in North Wales. Due to its location, a visit feels almost like you have discovered a hidden gem. You will hardly see any other tourists here.

The castle was built in the thirteenth century by the Welsh prince Llywelyn the Great to defend the southern border of his kingdom of Gwynedd. After the castle came into the hands of the English King Edward I, it was expanded. A few years later, it was besieged during a Welsh uprising and probably set on fire. It was never rebuilt afterwards, leaving only these ruins.

You can walk through the different parts of the castle and enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding hills where sheep graze along the way. It is lovely to sit here for a moment and enjoy the surroundings. An added benefit is that a visit is completely free.

In the village of Corris, we pay a visit to Dyfi Distillery, A small-scale distillery in the heart of the UNESCO Dyfi Biosphere Reserve. Here, everything revolves around the surrounding nature. Brothers Pete and Danny Cameron founded the distillery together, with Pete, a botanist, combining his extensive knowledge of the local flora with Danny's experience in distilling.

What makes Dyfi Distillery special is that virtually all the botanicals used for the gin come from the immediate surroundings. The brothers head out themselves to collect herbs, flowers, and other ingredients. In this way, every bottle of gin literally reflects the landscape in which it is made.

At the distillery, Danny gives us more information about the origins of the distillery, the harvesting of the botanicals, and the distillation process. Naturally, a small tasting is a must. We taste various gins, such as the classic Dyfi Original Dry Gin, made with 29 different botanicals. Personally, I found the variant aged in Madeira casks very surprising. It had a much fuller and more powerful flavor and was my absolute favorite.

It lies close to Machynlleth Center for Alternative Technology (CAT), an organization that has been working on practical solutions for a more sustainable future since 1973. The site is built on a former slate quarry and shows how an abandoned industrial area can be transformed into a green environment with gardens, ponds, sustainable buildings, and various demonstration projects.

We are given a tour here and receive further explanation regarding the diverse projects CAT is involved in. These include sustainable construction, renewable energy, water management, food production, and biodiversity. In addition, the site is an important location for education and research. Students from both the Netherlands and abroad attend programs and courses in the field of sustainability here.

At the time of my visit, the visitor center was closed, and the site is primarily used for education. The intention is for it to become accessible to visitors again in the future. It is interesting to see how many different ways there are to put sustainability into practice.

A fun way to discover North Wales is via the Cambrian Coast Railway. This railway line is described as one of the most beautiful train routes in Great Britain. The route winds along the coast, through green valleys, and past the foothills of the mountains of Eryri National Park.

We board the train to Barmouth in Machynlleth. Soon we pass green hills and rugged mountain slopes, and enjoy beautiful views of the coast. The advantage of the train is that you have plenty of time to enjoy the scenery. The train journey is a nice change of pace during our trip through North Wales. If you are travelling through the region by car, it is certainly worth taking the train for part of the route. It allows you to experience the landscape in a completely different way.

The visit to Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli in Welsh) is perhaps one of the most special experiences of our trip. This small island lies off the coast of the Llŷn Peninsula and is only accessible by boat. Even during the crossing, there is plenty to see. Along the way, we spotted various seabirds, including puffins. Seals also showed themselves regularly.

In 1920, more than 100 people still lived on the island. Nowadays, only two people live there permanently, and there are hardly any amenities. Nevertheless, you can find a historic church, an old school, a small café, and a small shop there, among other things. The rest of the island is mostly shared with… a whole lot of sheep.

We have four hours to explore Bardsey Island. Four walking routes have been marked out on the island. By combining different routes, you can see a large part of the island. Part of the route runs along the coast. We see various birds and seals in the water. Later, we see a small group of seals resting on the rocks. Due to the warm summer day, we skipped the climb to the highest point of the island, but even without that hike, the view was impressive.

If you are looking for a special place off the beaten path, this island certainly should not be missing from your itinerary.

Beaumaris is a charming coastal town on the Anglesey island. It is a lovely place to wander around for a few hours because the center is compact. Narrow streets, colorful houses, and a cozy harbor create a relaxed atmosphere. Among other things, I visited the impressive St Mary's and St Nicholas's Church and the imposing Beaumaris Castle.

Beaumaris Castle It was built at the end of the thirteenth century on the orders of King Edward I and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is due in part to its distinctive design with multiple defensive rings, making it one of the finest examples of medieval military architecture in Europe. The castle was never fully completed. Today, you can walk freely through the castle, climb the towers, and look out over Beaumaris and the Menai Strait from the old ramparts.

Beaumaris is also an ideal base for a boat trip to Puffin Island. The Puffin Island Cruise, a boat trip around the small island of Puffin Island, departs from the harbor. Despite the name, the excursion is not just about puffins. During the trip, you will see various seabirds, seals, and (with a little luck) dolphins.

Compared to Bardsey Island, we see fewer puffins here. In the end, we spot only two, which kept diving underwater only to resurface a moment later. Fortunately, there is plenty of other wildlife to see along the way. Various seals are resting along the cliffs, and we see plenty of other birds.

During the trip, we also sail past the distinctive lighthouse of Puffin Island, which has guided shipping through the treacherous waters around the island since the nineteenth century. Close to the lighthouse, a group of dolphins surfaces, leaping out of the water several times. A beautiful ending to an already special boat trip.

The name of this village alone is a sight in itself: Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. It is the longest place name in Europe and one of the longest official place names in the world. Just try pronouncing it without tripping over your tongue…

The village itself is relatively small, and frankly, the distinctive name is the main reason why most visitors stop here. At the train station stands the famous station sign displaying the full place name, where almost everyone takes a quick photo. Right next to the station is a souvenir shop with all kinds of products referring to the famous place name. Naturally, I couldn't resist asking the locals if they could pronounce this place name fluently. It turned out to be no problem at all for them.

Salt may seem like a simple product, but a visit to Grab Mon shows just how much craftsmanship actually goes into it. At the visitor centre on Anglesey, you get a look behind the scenes of one of Wales' most famous sea salt producers.

During a tour, we discover how the sea salt is extracted from the waters of the Menai Strait and processed step by step into a high-quality product. Halen Môn supplies its sea salt to restaurants and top chefs all over the world and is known for the high quality of its products.

The tour also includes a small tasting. During this, we not only taste different types of salt, but also discover the subtle flavor differences between regular table salt, sea salt, and the various products from Halen Môn. In addition, we are served a few other specialties, including a gin and a caramel spread.

To be honest, I never expected beforehand that a visit to a salt producer would be so interesting. After this visit, you definitely look at that jar of salt in the supermarket just a little differently.

Due to the high temperatures, we had to adjust our original plans and unexpectedly paid a visit to Conwy. This historic fortified town is one of the most beautiful places in North Wales and is known for its imposing city walls and medieval character.

Conwy is still almost entirely surrounded by well-preserved city walls from the thirteenth century, giving you the real feeling of walking into a medieval fortified town. The most famous structure is Conwy Castle, one of the impressive castles that King Edward I had built at the end of the thirteenth century. Another hotspot is the smallest house in Great Britain. That little house is not even two meters wide and was actually inhabited until the beginning of the twentieth century. It is hard to imagine that an entire family once lived here.

Our last stop in North Wales takes us to Wernog Wood, A small-scale center founded in 2017 by Rob Hill and Claire Acworth. Since then, it has grown into a place where visitors can get acquainted with traditional crafts. In a wooded setting, artisans give workshops in woodworking, blacksmithing, photography, ceramics, and glassmaking, among others. You can even stay overnight, making Wernog Wood a great base for a creative vacation or multi-day workshop.

We meet Rich Jones, an experienced blacksmith who has been combining traditional forging techniques with modern designs for years. After a brief explanation, we get to get to work in the forge ourselves. Armed with a hammer, anvil, and a glowing piece of steel, we make our own coat hook step by step. Heating, bending, twisting, and hammering the metal turned out to be much more fun than I had expected. For a moment, I feel like that young schoolboy again who has to make something during arts and crafts class. Time flies by.

Afterwards, we enjoy a delicious, homemade lunch, bringing this final activity to a relaxed close. If you are looking for a unique workshop where you truly learn something new and go home with a handmade souvenir, Wernog Wood is highly recommended.

During my trip through North Wales, I stayed at three completely different locations. From a glamping pod amidst old slate quarries to a charming inn and a historic country house. All three offered a very different experience and suited the character of the region well.

The first two nights I stayed in a glamping pod of Plas Weunydd, close to Blaenau Ffestiniog. The spacious and comfortable pods are situated amidst impressive slate landscapes and form an ideal base for exploring Eryri National Park and the UNESCO Slate Landscape. Although the pods accommodate several people, I had one all to myself. Each pod features its own kitchen, a barbecue, and a wood-burning stove, making it easy to cook your own meals or sit outside in the evening. If you don't feel like doing that, you can visit the restaurant and bar of the adjacent Plas Weunydd Hotel.

Moreover, right next to the accommodation is Zip World Llechwedd, where you can, among other things, zip-line over the former slate quarries and participate in various adventurous activities. Even without such an activity, it is a special place.

For our last night on Anglesey, we stayed in The Bull's Head Inn in Beaumaris. This historic inn dates back to the fifteenth century and formerly served as a coachman's inn for travelers passing through North Wales. Today, the accommodation combines its historic character with modern rooms, some of which are housed in a new building opposite the original inn. I stayed in that new section myself. Thanks to its central location, within walking distance of the harbour, Beaumaris Castle, and the charming streets, it is a great base for exploring the town and the surrounding area. Furthermore, the historic inn houses an atmospheric restaurant and a traditional pub, where you can go for lunch, dinner, or a drink.

The last accommodation where we slept was Bodysgallen Hall, A historic country house just outside Llandudno. As soon as you drive onto the grounds, you notice that this is a very different accommodation from the previous one. The country house is surrounded by extensive gardens, features a classic interior, and still exudes the atmosphere of a centuries-old country retreat.

I stayed in a spacious room in the former stables, which have now been converted into comfortable hotel rooms. From there, you can walk straight into the gardens, where you can stroll in peace. The restaurant and lounge also perfectly match the ambiance of the country house, making it a lovely place to unwind after an active day in North Wales.

If you are looking for a unique accommodation with a rich history and a quiet location just outside Llandudno, Bodysgallen Hall is certainly worth considering.

You can discover North Wales in various ways. As far as I am concerned, the car is the most convenient choice, as many sights are scattered throughout the region and you can easily stop along the way at viewpoints, small villages, and local businesses. The region is also great to explore by train. Various railway lines run straight through the mountainous landscape or along the coast.

Would you prefer to do something active? Then hop on a bike. Besides the Mawddach Trail, there are many more cycling routes to be found. Hikers will also find plenty to enjoy here. In Eryri National Park and along the coast, you will find countless hiking trails, ranging from short walks to challenging mountain treks. Finally, there are various boat trips, for example to Bardsey Island or Puffin Island, where you also have the chance to spot wildlife along the way.

Disclaimer: My trip to Wales was made possible in collaboration with Visit Wales. Everything you read in this article is my personal opinion/experience.