Mount Nemrut, absolute highlight of Turkey

Turkey's history goes back a long way. Many great civilizations have risen here and later collapsed. Each civilization has left its mark. Think of famous places like Ephesus, Troy, or Hierapolis-Pamukkale. Slightly less well-known are the historical sites in the Southeast Anatolia region. This region is steeped in history. It's not without reason that Southeast Anatolia is considered the "cradle of civilizations." ancient city of Zeugma, the oldest temple complex in the world Göbekli Tepe or one of the oldest cities in the world; HarranAnd then there is Nemrut Dağı, or Mount Nemrut.

Burial mound of King Antiochus

Nemrut Dağı is the name of the conical mountain peak. At 2150 meters high, it towers over the surrounding area. The summit of the mountain is the location of a remarkable burial chamber. When Alexander the Great's empire collapsed, Kommagene was one of the kingdoms that formed. It existed from 162 BC to 72 AD. The rulers of Kommagene left behind several remarkable funerary temples. The most remarkable burial mound belongs to King Antiochus I. He became king in 98 BC and wanted to expand the Greek influence in his empire. First, he built a tomb for his father in Arsamea. Then, he commissioned the construction of a gigantic burial chamber for himself, hidden within the mountain, above which are several colossal statues of Greek, Persian, and Armenian gods and goddesses. Antiochus believed that his soul would reside with Zeus-Oromasdes after his death. Therefore, he also placed a gigantic statue of himself among the other gods. His inscription reads: "I, Antiochus, have caused this monument to be erected in memory of my own glory and that of the gods." Antiochus died around 31 BC and was buried in his unfinished tomb.

Colossal statues

The most remarkable feature of the burial mound is the colossal stone statues. King Antiochus commissioned a gigantic statue of himself at an altitude of approximately 2000 meters. His statue was flanked by lions, eagles, and various Greek, Persian, and Armenian gods. Among others, Zeus, Heracles, Artagnes, Ares, Oromasdes, Apollo, Mithras, Helios, and Hermes flank the statue of Antiochus. All statues are approximately 8 to 10 meters tall and originally had their names engraved in the stone. The statues were carved so that the figures sat on chairs. Due to the region's history of frequent earthquakes, they have disintegrated. The heads and limbs of the statues have fallen from their torsos and are scattered across the site. The western terrace is considered the mountain's holiest site. From here, you can look down on the landscape of Mesopotamia, the cradle of civilization. The eastern terrace has the same statues, but the damage to them is much more extensive. However, a stone slab of a lion surrounded by nineteen stars is visible here. This could be the oldest horoscope in the world and could indicate when construction of this temple began.

Discovery of the images

The burial mound was abandoned for a long time and difficult to reach. Although many explorers visited the region, Mount Nemrut wasn't discovered until 1881. However, locals were already aware of the existence of the mountain with the statues. It was the German engineer Karl Sester who was the first Westerner to discover the tomb and the statues. After the discovery, the first research on the mountain began. Large-scale research didn't take place until after World War II. Several archaeologists have visited the area to discover the origins of Mount Nemrut. The burial chamber remains undiscovered. Scientists suspect that King Antiochus is buried there. Archaeologists believe the discovery of the tomb could be as important as that of the Egyptian pharaohs.

UNESCO World Heritage List

Mount Nemrut is one of the many locations in Turkey that are on the UNESCO World Heritage List This organization, established by the United Nations, aims to eradicate poverty and protect cultural and natural heritage. Sites inscribed on the World Heritage List are considered irreplaceable cultural or natural heritage sites that must be preserved at all costs. Mount Nemrut has been a World Heritage Site since 1987. The statues are considered among the most ambitious constructions of the ancient world. They utilize cutting-edge technology unseen elsewhere at the time. Furthermore, they reflect the dual cultural background of the Kingdom of Commagene, drawing inspiration from Persian, Hellenistic, and Anatolian mythologies.

You can visit Nemrut Dagi on your own or with an organized tour. If you have a (rental) car, I highly recommend exploring the mountain on your own. Nemrut Dagi is open from 4:00 AM until sunset. You can visit this unique destination during the day, but most people choose to admire the sunrise and/or sunset. We chose to see both the sunrise and sunset.

Sunset

Around 16.45:20 PM, we drive up the mountain from our hotel. We arrive at a large parking lot. We need to stop here to buy tickets. While large buses have to wait here, we can drive further up by car. At the end of the road is a second parking lot. After that, you have to continue on foot. There are two paths leading up. For sunset, it's best to walk up the left path. It's quite a few steps, and the walk takes about fifteen to twenty minutes.

Once at the top, I'm face to face with the gigantic statues for the first time. Shortly after, my mother joins me, tears welling up in her eyes. This place is so unique that we're both moved by it. The light is currently perfect for the western terrace. On the other side, the statues are now in shadow and much less photogenic. This is why you should actually climb the mountain twice. A downside to sunset is the crowds. Many people wait on the western terrace until the sun goes down. The sunset is beautiful, but the harsh shadows make the light on the statues less photogenic. As soon as the sun sets, everyone is asked to leave the mountain. It gets dark quickly, and they want everyone back down on time.

sunrise

It's a short night, as the alarm goes off at 3:30 a.m. This time, we want to be there in time for the sunrise. In pitch darkness, we drive back up the mountain. It's still relatively quiet at the ticket office, so the tickets are quickly purchased. Then we drive to the parking lot. I've learned from the previous day and am wearing long pants and a warm sweater. With the cold wind, you really need them. For sunrise, it's recommended to walk up the right side so you arrive directly at the right terrace. The horizon is starting to turn orange, so I look for a good spot. Slowly but surely, more and more people are making their way up the mountain. So it's wise to get to the top early to secure a good spot.

And then the sun peeks out from behind the mountains, illuminating the burial mound. Because some of the statues are still obscured by harsh shadows, I don't find this moment particularly photogenic. So we wait until the statues are fully illuminated. Meanwhile, the first people are already starting to leave the mountain. These are mainly the people who arrived on a bus tour and need to leave on time. Shortly after, everyone has left, and the two of us are still standing on the mountain. This moment, in particular, is unique and makes a deep impression on me. Since it's my birthday and we've brought a bottle of raki, we toast this special moment. We can't help laughing ourselves. It's 6:00 a.m., and we're drinking a glass of raki on my birthday among the iconic statues of Mount Nemrut. Who can say that?

The light keeps getting better and better, and this location is becoming more and more photogenic. We can keep taking photos undisturbed, because we're completely alone. Almost completely alone. The security guard comes over to check on us and sees us still there. He starts laughing and tries to chat with us in broken English. We're even invited in for a cup of tea. This is Turkish hospitality at its finest.

We've been on the mountain for over three and a half hours now. We decide to walk to the other side so we can photograph this terrace as well. We're still completely alone. We spend another hour photographing on the other side before walking back to the car.

Reaching Mount Nemrut by public transport isn't easy. There's no public transport that goes all the way to the mountain's entrance. Therefore, it's advisable to have a (rental) car, especially if you want to watch the sunrise. Mount Nemrut is easily accessible by car from the major cities of Adıyaman, Malatya, or Diyarbakır. We drove to Mount Nemrut from Diyarbakır in about three hours. The roads are excellent, and you can optionally make a stop in Takoran Vadisi. If you don't have a car, it's wise to book an organized tour. Karadut is located 10 kilometers from the mountain. From there, you can hike to the summit.

Since we didn't want to drive too long to Mount Nemrut, we chose to stay overnight in Karadut at Hotel Euphrat NemrutThis hotel is located at the foot of the mountain, 9 kilometers from the summit. The staff is very friendly and speaks English. They are happy to help you reach the summit of Mount Nemrut. Be sure to ask the staff about a route through the Nemrut Dagi Valley. The staff recommended driving through the valley, where you can admire many more historical sites. The rooms are simple but clean. There is an outdoor pool, and breakfast and dinner are available.

In 2022 I made an impressive journey through Southeastern AnatoliaThis region is completely different from tourist destinations like the Aegean Coast or the Turkish Riviera. Here, time seems to have stood still, and you can experience what Turkey looked like decades ago. Southeast Anatolia is a region with unique cities, each with its own distinct character. For example, I visited the cities Gaziantep, Şanlıurfa, Mardin, Diyarbakir and Halfeti. There's also much to discover historically. Southeastern Anatolia is considered the cradle of civilization. Zeugma, Göbekli Tepe, Harran, Pirin and Mount Nemrut are just a few examples of historical sites in this region. Anyone wishing to explore this region should definitely set aside two weeks to visit all the highlights. I can only recommend visiting this part of Turkey.