Visiting Mathare: another side of Nairobi

Mathare is often described as a slum or 'slumsThis means that many homes are not officially registered and facilities such as sewerage, waste disposal, and clean drinking water are of limited availability. However, that description tells only part of the story.

Mathare is one of Nairobi's largest informal settlements and is located northeast of the city center. Estimates of the population vary widely, but at least hundreds of thousands of people live there.

The neighborhood consists of narrow streets, simple corrugated iron houses, and small businesses that have sprung up scattered throughout. At the same time, you see schools, sports facilities, cafes, and small shops where residents are trying to build something. Something is happening everywhere, and despite the difficult circumstances, there is a certain liveliness in the neighborhood.

To get to Mathare, we traveled by matatu. These are minibuses that serve as public transport in Nairobi and are an important part of daily life. A very interesting way to travel. The music was so loud that after a while we even asked if the bass could be turned down a bit. There were screens showing video clips everywhere in the bus, and the ride felt more like a moving nightclub than public transport.

At the same time, you also realize that for many residents, this is simply the way they travel to work every morning. If you are shaken awake like this, at least you don't start your day half-asleep.

It got even better when we were picked up again later in Mathare. The driver made the bus bounce up and down like a low rider while the music echoed through the neighborhood. Within a few seconds, children were dancing and jumping all around the bus. That moment really stuck with me.

Upon arrival, we first received an explanation from the guides. Primarily about respect and how one should behave in the neighborhood. For example, we were asked to keep phones put away as much as possible, not to take photos without permission, and always to ask for permission first. That explanation actually felt very logical. After all, you are walking through a residential area where people simply live, work, and reside.

To be honest, my first impression of Mathare was quite confronting. From a distance, you see clutter, simple houses, and people living everywhere on the street among the animals. At that moment, you do think for a moment: where have we actually ended up?

But the longer you walk through the neighborhood, the more you notice that Mathare is much more than just poverty. You see shops, street vendors, schools, and places where young people gather to play sports or games.

You almost always visit Mathare with a local guide. We set off with residents from the neighborhood itself, joined by a number of escorts. That might sound more intense than it actually felt.

The tour lasted about two to two and a half hours, and along the way there was plenty of opportunity to ask questions and have conversations. Our guides were young people from the neighborhood themselves and spoke openly about their lives and experiences. What I appreciated was that the discussion wasn't limited to problems and poverty. Instead, they also talked about initiatives, opportunities, and developments within the neighborhood.

After the tour, we were offered a simple lunch. Not a fancy meal, but just local food prepared with care. Moments like that ensure you don't just walk through the neighborhood, but truly become a part of it for a moment.

When you walk through Mathare with a group of tourists, you naturally attract attention. That sometimes felt quite contradictory. We look at how people live here, but at the same time, residents are of course looking at us too.

Still, we were actually received kindly everywhere. Children, in particular, were curious and enthusiastic. There was waving, laughing, and children frequently wanted a high five, a fist bump, or to walk hand in hand for a moment.

With adults, I noticed that it was different. Some people struck up a conversation or waved friendly, while others were mainly busy with their daily lives. That actually felt very normal. Of course, not everyone appreciates visitors in the street where they live.

What struck me was that there was absolutely no pushy atmosphere. People weren't trying to sell us anything, and we weren't constantly approached. As a result, the interaction felt genuine and relaxed.

What this tour has made particularly clear is how much resilience you see in the neighborhood. Of course, the conditions are tough, and you see things that are confronting. Think of limited sanitary facilities or large groups of people living close together.

At the same time, you also see how many people are trying to make something of their surroundings. You come across small businesses everywhere, from shops and food stalls to places where young people can play sports or gather.

We saw, among other things, schools, cafes, places where people can play games, and a gym being set up by the residents themselves. That painted a very different picture from the stereotypical stories you often hear about these kinds of neighborhoods. You notice that people here are not just focused on survival, but also on building a better future.

A visit to Mathare calls for respect and common sense. Therefore, always go with a local guide or organization and listen carefully to their instructions.

• Always ask permission before taking photos.
• Keep your phone and valuables stored away as much as possible.
• Stay with the group during the tour.
• Show genuine interest and respect towards residents
• Avoid condescending or uncomfortable questions

During my visit, I didn't feel unsafe for a single moment. At the same time, of course, you are still in a poor and busy neighborhood where you need to stay alert. The guides know exactly where you can and cannot go.

There are other neighborhoods in Nairobi where similar tours are offered. In some of those neighborhoods, photography is strongly discouraged or even not allowed at all. In Mathare, during my visit, they were more relaxed about it, as long as you remained respectful and asked for permission first.

My visit to Mathare was part of a two-week tour of Kenya with Kipanga Adventures. During this trip, we visited Nairobi National Park, Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Hell's Gate National Park, Lake Naivasha, the Masai Mara, and Diani Beach, among others.

From safaris and wildlife to local encounters and special experiences such as a visit to Mathare: this trip showed just how multifaceted Kenya actually is.