My short trip through Bosnia & Herzegovina

During the war in the 1990s, Sarajevo was the scene of heavy fighting. The city was completely surrounded by Serb forces. From the mountains, they constantly bombarded the city, which is vulnerable to attack. The siege of Sarajevo lasted three years and nine months. 8000 soldiers and 12.000 civilians were killed. The city was completely in ruins. The past still haunts Sarajevo; if you look closely, you'll see countless bullet holes in the facades of the houses, and you can spot the "Roses of Sarajevo" (artworks of deadly mortar shells) scattered throughout the streets. Every effort was made to rebuild the city, and it was a great success. If you didn't know better, you'd think nothing ever happened here.

In the old city center, I feel like I'm in Turkey. And that's not entirely surprising, as Sarajevo has a rich Ottoman history, and many influences are still visible today. Turkish bazaars, mosques, and those beautiful streets where you can stroll. Small shops and restaurants with terraces mingle, as do regular stores where locals shop.

In the 90s, Sarajevo was the scene of heavy fighting during the Yugoslav War. The city was completely destroyed, and thousands of people were killed.

Sarajevo boasts many unique sights. One of them is undoubtedly the Latin Bridge. Prince Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated on this bridge, marking the beginning of World War I. Did you know? A small commemorative plaque is the only reminder of this event. High above the mountains, you'll find another remarkable sight: the abandoned bobsled run. Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics. As is often the case with the Winter Games, the facilities were abandoned, and nature has taken over. We take the cable car to the bobsled run, much of which is walkable.

The death of Franz Ferdinand on the Latin Bridge marked the start of the First World War.

But of course, many locations in the city are reminders of the war of the 90s. An impressive example is the Gallery 11/07/95 museum, where you can learn more about the fall of Srebrenica. The photos and videos you can see there are quite shocking. It's bizarre to see these images and then realize that they took place not so long ago. Around and in the city, you'll also find several cemeteries with white memorial stones. You'll pass several of them from the mountains or on your way by car. Not far from the airport, you can visit the Tunnel of Hope. This tunnel played a crucial role in the city's survival during the Yugoslav War. It was the only way in and out of the city. Food, medicine, and weapons were brought into the city through the tunnel. A small section of the tunnel can still be visited in the museum.

After Sarajevo, we continue to Mostar. There was also heavy fighting here in the 90s, and this city was completely destroyed. After the war, the city was completely rebuilt. This, in my opinion, is the ultimate testament to the resilience of the people. The city was rebuilt even more beautifully than it had ever been, but this also made it a real tourist attraction, and the old town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the summer months, it can get extremely busy here (and incredibly hot). Since we went outside of peak season, it wasn't too crowded. However, many day trippers arrive here daily by bus from Croatia, and it can still feel crowded.

Mostar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a major tourist attraction. Fortunately, it wasn't too crowded during our visit.

Mostar's most important attraction is undoubtedly the Stari Most. The Old Bridge is a beautiful example of Islamic Balkan architecture. The original bridge was built in the 16th century but was blown up during the war. After the war, the bridge was repaired and reopened in 2004. Nowadays, young people jump 19 meters down every day with the money they receive from tourists. That takes some courage. Since the bridge is considered the city's main attraction, there are almost always people on it during the day. The best time to take a photo of it is therefore early in the morning. Another bridge, which is slightly less crowded, is the Crooked Bridge. This bridge was also destroyed, but by a flood in 2000.

Mostar's main attraction is the Stari Most. The bridge was blown up during the war but later repaired. Young people jump from the bridge, approximately 19 meters down into the water every day.

A stroll through the historic center is highly recommended, especially in the morning when it's not yet incredibly crowded. You can visit the minaret of a mosque, for example, which offers stunning views of the city. Outside the old town, you'll see several ruins from the war, including the Sniper Tower. Unfortunately, you can no longer enter this building, but you can enjoy the street art with a message. The Partisan cemetery is also impressive, where, surprisingly, we were completely alone. Be sure to return to the old town in the evening, as you'll find numerous restaurants and terraces.

When the truckloads of buses arrive, it's actually wise to avoid the crowds and explore the surroundings of Mostar. Just outside the city, we visit an old airplane hangar. These days, it's more of a garbage dump than a place of beauty. There, we stumbled upon two iron thieves sawing the old steel door into pieces. Although many people are friendly, you always have to be on your guard. If these two men had malicious intent, they could easily have robbed us.

In the town of Blagaj, a few kilometers from Mostar, we visit the historic Dervish Monastery. This 16th-century monastery, built on the banks of the blue Duna River, is a classic example of Ottoman architecture. We visit the interior, but it's not really worth the visit. It's more beautiful to look at the house from a distance.

The spectacular Kravica Waterfalls are just a two-hour drive from Mostar. Located in the Trebižat River, they reach a height of approximately 25 meters. Swimming is permitted in the lake surrounding the waterfalls, but the water is quite cold. Please note that these waterfalls are a tourist attraction and can get quite crowded.

We'll also stop in the village of Počitelj, which is highly recommended because it feels like stepping back in time. It's no wonder this village is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built around the 14th century, it held a strategic location. A wall encircled the village, which can still be seen in some places. Unfortunately, Počitelj was also hit during the war. Several houses and buildings were severely damaged, but were restored after the war without compromising the original structures. We'll visit the mosque and citadel. From here, you'll have a magnificent view of the town and surrounding area. You can still climb the wall all the way to the highest point of the village, where a watchtower stands.

Between Mostar and Sarajevo, you can not only enjoy the beautiful scenery, but you'll also find several sights that are definitely worth a stop. In the town of Jablanica, you can see a blown-up railway bridge. I should mention that the bridge you see was built for a film shot in 1969. The original bridge was blown up during World War II, but a replica was created for the film. The bridge was intended to be blown up again in the film, but because of the large amount of smoke, this scene ultimately didn't make it into the movie. The remains of the bridge can still be admired today.

Much more impressive is Tito's secret bunker near Konjic. Fearing an atomic bomb, Yugoslav president Tito commissioned the construction of a massive bunker in Bosnia. The bunker's construction was a multi-million dollar project, took 26 years, and was ultimately never used. Tito never even visited the bunker, dying before the project was completed. The bunker has recently been opened to the public. Besides the impressive construction, you can admire artwork with a darker edge. In my opinion, a visit to this bunker is definitely not to be missed.

When traveling through Bosnia and Herzegovina, don't miss Tito's bunker. It's perhaps one of the most bizarre structures in the country that was never used.

Five days is certainly far too short to truly get to know the country, but I highly recommend a visit to Sarajevo and Mostar. There's also plenty to discover in the area surrounding both cities. This trip left you wanting more, and I think Bosnia & Herzegovina has so much more to offer.

There are no direct flights from Amsterdam flights to Bosnia & HerzegovinaYou can fly directly to Bosnia & Herzegovina from Cologne, Düsseldorf, or Eindhoven. In October, I booked a return flight from Eindhoven with Wizz Air from Thursday to Tuesday. Wizz Air flies to Tuzla, just over 90 minutes from the capital, Sarajevo.

To see as much as possible in a short time, I always prefer to rent a car. You can easily get around and stop whenever you want. For our short road trip through Bosnia & Herzegovina, I chose a rental car via Sunny CarsWith Sunny Cars, you're guaranteed optimal insurance for your rental car as standard, so you don't have to worry about extra mileage or unusual fuel policies. You can add even more peace of mind with various service packages. For example, you can book an additional driver, rent a navigation system, or even add a tent package. Traveling by car is pleasant and convenient, but also bad for the climate. With Sunny Cars, you can offset the CO02 emissions of your rental car and give households in developing countries access to sustainable energy.

For this trip, we rented a Skoda Fabia. It might not be the most exciting car, but it was incredibly fuel-efficient. During our five days, the tank was only half empty! Which is quite admirable, considering we had to drive quite a bit through the mountains.

Disclaimer: This blog post contains sponsored sections.