Turkey Itinerary: 10 Days Black Sea Coast

Day 1: Düsseldorf - Trabzon

The journey to the Black Sea coast begins in Düsseldorf. There are direct flights to the Trabzon Airport, but the flight times are quite inconvenient since you will arrive in the middle of the night. Therefore, we choose to make a stopover in Istanbul. This way, we arrive in Trabzon in the late afternoon. Via Sunny Cars We rent a car. When you rent a car with Sunny Cars, you're always guaranteed good insurance. Driving in Turkey is always an adventure, especially when visiting the larger cities. This becomes clear again when we try to reach our hotel. The hotel is located in the city center, but the navigation system can't find a decent route. After taking three wrong turns, I give up. I park the car somewhere near the hotel and ask if the staff can help us. Of course they can. The Turks are always friendly and willing to help in that regard. After checking in, it's time for a bite to eat and a quick tour of the city center. Trabzon is a vibrant city with a mix of different religions, languages, and cultures. The next day we'll really explore the city.

Overnight stay: TS Park Hotel in Trabzon (2 nights)

Day 2: Trabzon

As we have breakfast, the sun is shining. But the weather can change quickly in this region. The Trabzon region is mountainous, and mountains are always unpredictable. It suddenly becomes foggy and cloudy as we begin our discovery tour of Trabzon. The best way to explore a city and its culture is by visiting a market or bazaar. Here you'll always get a glimpse into how people live, what their customs are, and what the local specialties are. For example, the large, traditional loaves of Trabzon bread are a true specialty of the region. You can see these beautiful loaves being baked in various bakeries.

A unique building in the city is the Şehir Camii. This gigantic mosque is designed to accommodate 150.000 people, but it's still under construction. It will be the largest structure on the eastern Black Sea coast, scheduled for completion in 2024. High on the hills stands the old castle. From a distance, you can still admire the old outer walls, but the castle itself is closed to visitors. Because it's suddenly pouring rain, we take shelter at the Trabzon Aquarium. This museum is housed in a tunnel and houses over 5000 fish. We also visit Zagnos Valley Park, Trabzon Kalekapı, and have lunch at Tarihi Kalkanoğlu Pilavi.

We also take the dolmus to Boztepe Hill. From this vantage point, you have a panoramic view of the city, but unfortunately, fog and rain block the view. We also visit the Kizlar Monastery, located directly below Boztepe. Because of the rain, we then take the dolmus to the Forum, a large and modern shopping center.

Day 3: Sumela Monastery - Vazelon Monastery - Gümüşhane

Leaving Trabzon behind for a while, we explore the region further. In Altindere National Park, we visit the main tourist attraction of Trabzon province: the Sumela Monastery. This monastery complex is built against a steep cliff. The first rooms of the monastery were carved out of the rock in 386 AD by the Greek monk Barnabas. In the centuries that followed, the monastery was continuously expanded. The monastery was abandoned in 1923 due to the population exchange between Greece and Turkey. A fire also broke out, destroying part of the monastery. The oldest part of the monastery is the main attraction. Both the interior and exterior walls are painted with frescoes. We explore the monastery and delve into its various corridors and rooms. This monastery complex is a must-see if you're in Trabzon.

There are more monasteries to admire in the area, but these are mainly ruins. We try to reach Vazelon Monastery by car. An off-road path through the mountains leads to the monastery. You actually need a 4x4 for this, so we decide to hike the last part. Because the monastery is also built against a steep cliff face, you have to climb a narrow, steep path for the last part. This is the only way to reach the ruins of Vazelon Monastery. Little remains of the monastery. Yet, you can still see ancient frescoes here and there, and the complex is extremely photogenic. But we are in the mountains, and the weather quickly changes. A heavy thunderstorm breaks out. Completely soaked, we reach the car. Always bring an umbrella or a poncho…

After a hot shower at our hotel in Gümüşhane, we set out to find a nice place to eat. Directly across from our hotel, we find a spot at Balyemez Konagi. The staff is very friendly, and the kebabs are delicious!

Overnight stay: Ramada Hotel in Gümüşhane (1 night)

Day 4: Gümüşhane area - Krom Vadisi

Just south of Gümüşhane, we visit Kov Kalesi. The remains of this castle stand on a 130-meter-high rock. Kov Kalesi is one of the most beautiful castles in the Black Sea region. It was built in 1361 by the Byzantine Emperor Alexios to protect the region and trade routes from attacks from the east. Nothing remains of the castle, but its location is magnificent.

North of Gümüşhane, we visit the Karaca Cave. What an incredibly beautiful cave full of karst formations, stalactites, stalagmites, dripstone pools, and other natural wonders.

We attempt to drive towards Uzungöl via the Krom Valley. This valley is known for its churches and chapels, some of which are still somewhat intact. This is remarkable, as many Christian buildings were destroyed during the Ottoman Empire. We also visit the Imerati Monastery, the outer walls of which have been restored. The Krom Valley is difficult to access, with narrow gravel roads through the mountains. It's important to be vigilant with the car, especially when it starts to rain. Because the roads are so poor, we don't dare drive through the mountains to Uzungöl. This requires a considerable detour, but at least we have a paved road. We arrive in Uzungöl in the dark.

Overnight stay: Inan Kardesler Hotel in Uzungöl (2 nights)

Day 5: Uzungöl

Long Lake Uzungöl is best known for its namesake lake. The lake boasts a beautiful location in a valley nestled among towering mountains. In recent years, it has become an extremely popular destination, especially for Arabs. Consequently, many hotels and restaurants have been built around the lake. Early in the morning, it's not very crowded yet, and we take a tour around the lake. With the drone, I get a great overview of the lake, but you can also go to the skywalk for a beautiful view. Aside from the lake, Uzungöl feels a bit too touristy with its many restaurants, cafes, and (souvenir) shops.

Fortunately, the surrounding nature offers a good alternative. We drive into the mountains by car. Winding roads, steep slopes, and deep ravines. We even drive through the snow for a while. A spectacular drive with equally beautiful views. Every few meters, you can stop for a photo. In the mountains, you can visit the Karester Yaylasi and Glisura Yaylasi. From here, you have beautiful views of the green landscape and see Uzungöl in the distance. Of course, we then have to descend again by car. A challenging undertaking in a normal car. The enormous number of hairpin bends, muddy roads, and deep ravines really require your full attention. These roads are actually completely unsuitable for a normal car.

Day 6: Uzungöl area - Rize area

We're leaving Trabzon province and will now drive to Rize province. But first, we'll head back into the mountains. Better roads make reaching the Sultan Murat Plateau much easier. The plateau lies 2000 meters above sea level and is famous for its green surroundings, low-hanging clouds, and fresh air. If you look closely, you'll also see many unique flowers growing there. Although the Sultan Murat Plateau is supposedly a popular destination, we hardly see any other people here. A nice stop on the way to Rize.

Rize province is primarily known as a tea-growing region. The climate is perfect for tea cultivation. In the 40s and 50s, tea significantly transformed the region. Rize became the "tea capital" of Turkey. Black tea is traditionally a popular drink among Turks. And of course, we wanted to sample the tea at its source. We visited the Ceceva tea plantation. Here, you can walk through the plantations for 5 Lira and enjoy a cup of tea afterward. With the green landscape, it truly tastes delicious.

As if we hadn't already climbed enough mountains, we decided to drive to the top of Mount Kible. This mountain is also known as "Prayer Hill." At the top of the mountain stands the Kibledagi Haci Hafiz Yilmaz Mosque, at an altitude of 1130 meters. The views from the mosque are spectacular.

Overnight stay: Rhisos Hotel in Rize (2 nights)

Day 7: Rize

There's not much information available about the city of Rize. Its sights are practically countable on one hand. We discover this as we explore the city. We start the day with a walk along the Black Sea. The promenade is far from beautiful. Lots of concrete, rocks, and construction. It becomes clear that this region is not at all suitable for a beach holiday. The city center mainly features shops, cafes, and restaurants. Unlike many other cities, there's no central bazaar here. Around the center, it's best to explore the small side streets. Here you'll find some authentic shops where people still keep old crafts alive. For example, we're allowed to take a look at a simit bakery.

The highlight of the city is actually the castle on the hill. From the castle, you have a panoramic view of the city and the coast. Incidentally, tea is also grown on the city's hills. We therefore decide to visit the botanical gardens where we can drink fresh green tea. The botanical garden in Rize is actually more of a meeting place for locals. They gather here to enjoy the greenery and drink tea. The gardens themselves are actually quite unremarkable.

Day 8: Rize Region

The city of Rize didn't make a huge impression on me. So, we're going to explore the surrounding area by car. We're driving into the Firtina Valley, an incredibly green area with countless old Ottoman bridges spanning the Firtina River. Zil Kale is a historic building in the valley. This castle was built around the 14th or 15th century on the edge of a cliff. From its walls, you have a beautiful view of the valley. If you drive a little further, you'll reach the magnificent Palovit waterfall.

Another highlight in Rize province is the Ayder Plateau. The landscape has been compared to the Swiss Alps. The wooden houses on the rolling hills were once built by the locals. For a long time, only hikers came to this idyllic village during their walks. If you're there at the right time, you might even see bears. Tourism has increased significantly in recent years. Many Arabs come here to admire the unique landscape. It seems that the restaurants are also run by Arabs. The crowds and modern tourism somewhat detract from the environment. It's a shame, because the landscape and surroundings are truly fantastic, with snow-capped peaks and numerous waterfalls. I also understand the comparison with the Swiss Alps. We're trying to reach two more plateaus from Ayder, but unfortunately, the roads are completely unsuitable for our car.

Day 9: Trabzon Region

We leave Rize and return to Trabzon. Here we visit Cal Magarasi. This cave is the second-longest in the world! Its total length is a whopping 8 kilometers. Visitors can only enter a small section of the cave. While this cave isn't as spectacular as Kalaca Cave, it's still quite special to realize you're walking inside one of the longest caves in the world.

The cave is situated in a beautiful setting. And so we drive back into the mountains. We visit the Hirsafa Yaylasi and Karadag Yaylasi. We have to make many stops again because there are so many incredible views. As we descend, we even see a jackal on the road.

We're back in Trabzon. One hotspot we haven't yet admired is the Hagia Sophia. This shouldn't be confused with the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, by the way. This church is a prime example of late Byzantine architecture. Built around 1250, it was converted into a mosque in 1461. Because images were prohibited in religious buildings, the frescoes were whitewashed. They weren't rediscovered until 1958.

Overnight stay: TS Park Hotel in Trabzon (1 night)

Day 10: Trabzon - Düsseldorf

Our trip is almost over. Since we're flying back to Germany in the afternoon, there's still an opportunity to return to Boztepe. Since the weather is much better than a few days ago, we now have a much better view of the city. After this, it's time to head back to the airport.

We saw a completely different side of Turkey. The Black Sea coast is a region where the weather is very changeable due to the mountainous landscape. Because the climate here is much cooler and there's also a lot of rain, it's also extremely green. You don't come here for a beach holiday. I didn't find the cities all that special. You come here mainly for the unique landscape. You can undoubtedly go on fantastic hikes here. If you want to see a completely different side of Turkey and love nature, you should definitely visit the Black Sea coast.