Ol Pejeta Conservancy: a unique safari in Kenya

If you are visiting Ol Pejeta Conservancy, then of course you go on safari. The chances of seeing a lot of wildlife during a safari are high. Thanks to the varied landscape with grasslands, acacia trees, and wetlands, every game drive feels different. Moreover, on clear days, you have a view of Mount Kenya, the highest mountain in Kenya.

Although Ol Pejeta is a popular destination, the nature reserve does not feel crowded at all. I visited Ol Pejeta in April, outside the peak season. As a result, we sometimes didn't encounter any other safari vehicles for long periods. Our driver took the light and the best positions for photography into account. Whenever we spotted a special animal or bird, he stopped politely so we could take photos in peace. If you go on safari outside the peak season, you have all the time and space to observe the animals quietly.

In addition, Ol Pejeta offers activities that are not possible in many national parks, such as lion tracking and a night game drive. Combined with these activities, we were out and about in the park all day.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy is one of the most wildlife-rich nature reserves in Kenya outside the Masai Mara. Thanks to the variety of open grasslands, acacia forests, wetlands, and riverbanks, many different animal species live here. During a safari, there is therefore a good chance that you will encounter a lot of wildlife in a short time.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy is one of the few nature reserves in Kenya where the complete Big five lives: lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhinoceros. Whether you see them all during a single visit remains dependent on a bit of luck.

Unfortunately, we were not that lucky. We did see buffaloes, lions, elephants, and rhinos, but the leopard did not show itself. However, that did not spoil the fun, because during our safaris we encountered many more special animals.

Of the Big Five, you have the greatest chance of seeing a in Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Rhino to spot. Both the white and the black rhinoceros lives in the nature reserve. Moreover, Ol Pejeta is home to the largest population of black rhinos in East Africa.

Due to years of poaching and habitat loss, the black rhinoceros population reached a low point in the early 1990s. Globally, only about 2.300 individuals remained. Fortunately, thanks to intensive protection, the number of black rhinoceroses has grown again since then. Ol Pejeta plays an important role in this. Today, more than 140 black rhinoceroses live in the reserve alone.

To protect the rhinos, nothing is left to chance. Armed rangers patrol the nature reserve day and night, modern technology assists with monitoring, and every rhino is closely tracked. In Kenya, unlike in some other African countries, rhinos are generally not preventively dehorned. As a result, you see the animals as they are in nature, with their impressive horns.

We saw several rhinos during our safaris, sometimes a mother with her calf. Knowing that this species is struggling, these are moments that make an encounter special.

Moreover, Ol Pejeta Conservancy is the last place in the world where two northern white rhinos still live. You can read their sad story further in the article.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy is known for its predators. Lions are regularly sighted, and cheetahs, leopards, spotted hyenas, jackals, caracals, and the rare bat-eared fox also live in the nature reserve. With a bit of luck, you might even spot the rare African wild dog.

Early on our first safari, we saw the first spotted hyena. The animal had a wound near its eye and walked calmly past a gazelle. Later, we saw another hyena that was chased away by a group of approaching elephants.

The absolute highlight was a lion and a lioness lying in the grass right beside the road. From very close up, we could see the couple mating multiple times. The mating itself lasted only a few seconds, after which the lion briefly bit the lioness's neck and both animals lay down again. Less than ten minutes later, the whole ritual started all over again. During the fertile period, lions mate dozens of times a day, sometimes for four to five days in a row.

To see two lions mating at a distance of two meters was a special moment during our safari.

Besides the predators, we saw plenty of other animals during our safari. In the distance, we saw giraffes among the acacia trees, zebras grazed in groups among the elands and hartebeest, and we encountered impalas, warthogs, and other antelopes. A herd of elephants also showed itself at very close range.

A remarkable sight was a fight between two male impalas. They rammed their horns against each other time and again, until their horns eventually became entangled, causing one to fall to the ground and take some heavy blows. Suddenly, he managed to wriggle free, and they both stood up again. However intense it looked, this is nature too.

Also beautiful was the herd of elephants with a calf crossing the road right in front of our jeep. The calf constantly stayed on the safe side of its mother and was well protected by the rest of the herd.

Even the zebras provided some beautiful moments. We saw various animals rolling extensively in the sand, a way to keep their coats clean and get rid of annoying parasites.

During a safari, many people look out primarily for lions, elephants, or rhinos. That is logical, of course, but as a result, the birds are often overlooked. And that is actually a shame, because Ol Pejeta Conservancy is a fantastic destination for bird lovers. More than 300 bird species have been observed, and you will see special species on almost every safari.

Personally, I actually enjoyed watching birds along the way. While others were completely focused on a group of elephants slowly disappearing into the bushes, I saw a Black-tailed Roller land on a tree trunk. With its lilac breast and turquoise wings, it is a colorful bird. A little further on, two African Fish Eagles were sitting high in a tree. From their vantage point, they seemed to be keeping a close eye on everything. We also saw, among others, a Grey Kite, a Grey-headed Kingfisher, a Secretarybird, and the largest stork in Africa: the Saddle-billed Stork. We were lucky that our driver also found birds interesting and so stopped.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy is the only place in the world where northern white rhinoceroses life. That alone makes the nature reserve special, but the story behind these animals is sad.

Thousands of northern white rhinos once lived in various countries in Central Africa. Due to poaching, wars, and habitat loss, the population declined rapidly. The demand for rhino horn, which is mistakenly viewed as a medicine or status symbol in some parts of the world, caused the subspecies to eventually end up on the brink of extinction.

Today, only two northern white rhinos remain: Najin and her daughter Fatu. Both live under 24-hour surveillance in Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Since the death of the last male, Sudan, in 2018, natural reproduction is no longer possible. Consequently, the subspecies appears to be effectively extinct. It is incredibly sad that humans have allowed it to come to this.

Nevertheless, there is still a glimmer of hope. Scientists have been working for years on an international breeding program in which embryos are developed using IVF techniques from frozen genetic material of deceased males. In the future, these embryos would be implanted in a southern white rhinoceros, which could serve as a surrogate mother. Although the technique is promising, it remains a complex and lengthy process.

Visitors can visit Najin and Fatu accompanied by a ranger. During the visit, you will receive more information about their history, the conservation of the animals, and the international research attempting to save the subspecies from extinction.

I did not see the two rhinos myself. I did visit the grave of Sudan, the last male northern white rhino, and that made a great impression. Furthermore, I personally have some difficulty with the fact that visitors are allowed to touch the animals during this excursion. Although I understand that the proceeds contribute to the conservation of the species, it does not feel necessary to me.

If you want to delve deeper into the story of the northern white rhinoceros, I can recommend the documentary The Last Male on Earth by NPO. It follows the final years of Sudan's life.

In addition to a safari, during your visit to Ol Pejeta Conservancy you can also book other special experiences, such as visiting the last two northern white rhinos. During my visit, I got to experience a number of these unique experiences.

When I got the opportunity to go along with a lion tracking, To be honest, I had my doubts a little. I expected the ranger to simply follow a transmitter and drive us straight to the lions. In hindsight, that picture turned out to be completely wrong.

Together with a ranger, we went in search of a lioness wearing a transmitter collar. We listened to the signal via a receiver, but it took quite a long time before we picked anything up. Only when the beeps came faster and faster did we know that the lions must be nearby. Because the rangers are allowed to drive off-road during this activity, we drove straight through the tall grass in search of the group.

While I had focused my attention entirely on a jackal next to the car, suddenly eight to ten lions were lying hidden among the bushes on the other side. One of the lionesses was indeed wearing the transmitter collar. The group lay relaxed in the grass, but remained constantly alert.

In the distance, an unsuspecting warthog walked ever closer. The lions kept a close watch on the animal, while at the same time a herd of elephants came towards them. This made the lions visibly uneasy. When the warthog was close enough, several lions stood up simultaneously and gave chase.

The warthog eventually managed to escape, and the hunt failed. Still, it was incredibly special to experience this from such close proximity. Not only had we found a large group of lions, but we also witnessed the natural behavior of these animals.

Besides Najin and Fatu, Ol Pejeta also lives Baraka, A black rhinoceros that attracts many visitors. After he went blind in both eyes, he could no longer return to the wild. Since then, he has lived in a protected enclosure, where he receives the care he needs.

During a visit to Baraka, visitors have the opportunity to see him up close and feed him. The latter left me with mixed feelings. Of course, it is special to stand so close to a rhinoceros, but at the same time, it didn't feel quite right. Baraka was lying peacefully in the grass. His keeper was trying to lure him to the platform with branches full of leaves so that we could feed him.

Before my trip to Kenya, I wrote an article about animal suffering while travelingNevertheless, I decided to feed Baraka as well. In hindsight, I regret that. Baraka is receiving the care he needs and cannot return to the wild, but that does not automatically mean the animal must come into direct contact with visitors.

Above all, I hope that we become increasingly aware of the choices we make as travelers. By remaining critical of these types of activities, we can contribute to better wildlife tourism.

Chimpanzees do not naturally occur in Kenya. Yet, in Ol Pejeta Conservancy, you will find the country's only chimpanzee reserve. At Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary Chimpanzees are taken in that have been rescued from the illegal trade, kept as pets, or come from other poor living conditions. Because these animals can no longer survive independently in the wild, they are given a safe place here for the rest of their lives.

We were given a tour of the sanctuary by a caretaker. First, we visited a small exhibition where we learned more about the illegal chimpanzee trade and the stories behind the animals cared for here. Afterwards, we were able to observe the chimpanzees from various vantage points. Some animals sat close to the fence, while others preferred to retreat into the wooded enclosure.

The keepers try to encourage the chimpanzees to continue exhibiting their natural behavior. For example, artificial termite nests have been created in which honey or peanut butter is hidden. Using a stick, the chimpanzees try to retrieve the reward from the small openings, just as they fish termites out of a termite mound in the wild.

As soon as the sun sets, Ol Pejeta Conservancy changes completely. While most diurnal animals seek out a quiet spot, other species become active. During a night game drive You can experience that up close. With a searchlight on the jeep, you scan the surroundings together with a ranger, looking for animals that you hardly see during the day.

During a regular safari, you often spot the animals from a great distance. At night, it is very different. You focus mainly on two brightly glowing eyes in the pitch darkness. Fortunately, we had an experienced ranger, so we soon saw various animals. We spotted hyenas, elephants, buffaloes, and on the open plains, large groups of zebras, gazelles, and impalas preparing for the night.

After a while without any notable sightings, a male lion suddenly appeared. He lay relaxed in the grass and seemed largely unfazed by our presence. A little further away, his brother walked slowly towards a herd of impalas. We expected a chase at any moment, but things turned out very differently. The impalas had spotted the lion long ago, gathered together, and then walked straight towards him with the entire group. After the lion had walked through the animals, they even followed him for a short distance. We had not expected that at all.

To finish off, we also saw two bat-eared foxes walking through the grass. I had never seen these special animals before. However, it was so dark that taking a good photo proved almost impossible.

Are you planning to visit Ol Pejeta Conservancy? Then good preparation is helpful. Below you will find the most important practical information for your visit.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy is located in Laikipia County, in the central part of Kenya, at the foot of Mount Kenya. It takes about three to four hours to drive from Nairobi to the nature reserve. Many travelers combine a visit to Ol Pejeta with destinations such as Samburu National Reserve, Lake Naivasha or the Masai Mara.

You pay an entrance fee to visit Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Current rates vary for Kenyan residents, East African residents, and international visitors. Additionally, you pay a separate surcharge for some activities, such as lion tracking or a night game drive.

You can find the most up-to-date admission prices on the official website of Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy can be visited all year round. The dry months from June through October and January through February are generally considered the best period for a safari. During these months, the vegetation is less dense and animals gather more often at waterholes.

A visit is perfectly possible even during the rainy seasons. The landscape turns a beautiful green then, and there are often fewer visitors.

For most travelers, one or two nights are sufficient to explore Ol Pejeta Conservancy. This gives you enough time for multiple game drives and allows you to add one or more special activities to your visit.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy is accessible for self-drive, but many visitors choose to go with a guide. An experienced guide knows where animals often congregate and can recognize, for example, by the behavior of a herd of impalas, that a lion is lying nearby, even before you see one yourself.

During a safari, be sure not to forget your camera with a zoom lens. Binoculars can also be handy. Additionally, neutral clothing, sunscreen, a cap or hat, and plenty of water are recommended. If you are going on a night game drive, an extra cardigan or jacket is pleasant, as it can cool down considerably after sunset.

Do you want to know which animal you see? Then a safari guide Nice to have.

To get the most out of your visit, it is recommended to stay at least one night in or near Ol Pejeta Conservancy. This will give you plenty of time for multiple game drives and allow you to participate in activities such as lion tracking or a night game drive.

I stayed in myself Maisha Sweetwaters, just a few minutes' drive from the entrance to Ol Pejeta Conservancy. We slept in a spacious safari tent and were surprised every evening with a hot water bottle in bed, a small detail that was incredibly nice after a chilly evening in Laikipia. The extensive buffet and the hospitality of the staff also made this one of the best accommodations of the entire trip for us.

Besides Maisha Sweetwaters, there are several other lodges and tented camps in and around Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

I visited Ol Pejeta Conservancy during my two-week tour of Kenya with Kipanga AdventuresIn addition to Ol Pejeta, Nairobi National Park, Lake Naivasha, Hell's Gate National Park, the Masai Mara, and the beaches of Diani Beach were also on the itinerary.